When I was in culinary school — almost two decades ago — I learned to make a delicious plum barbecue sauce. Sweet, juicy, fresh plums replace the more predictable tomato product, and a little cayenne gives it a nice kick. I’ve made the sauce countless times over the years, both at home and in professional kitchens, and it’s always great. But I honestly don’t think I perfected it until I found the sublime plums, chicken, and brioche rolls at my farmers’ market. It’s a good reminder that great can always be better.